Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
